Restore electrolytic capacitors

First, I have to justify myself to anyone who asks, “Why the heck is he writing in such detail about restoring capacitors?”

From my point of view, the two most common problems that cause old devices to give up the ghost are primarily defective capacitors and, in second place, corroded contacts of mechanical components such as switches, relays or potentiometers. I will certainly write an article on the latter this year. The capacitors, in particular the electrolytic capacitors (short: elko) I dedicate myself here. Some time ago I started an experiment with paper capacitors, which is still running. The other two common capacitor types – ceramic and film capacitors – are much more durable than those with paper or electrolyte, which is why I have to replace them only in very rare cases and do not report about them here.

The protagonist of this article is a 50+50µF/350V power supply electrolytic capacitor from a tube radio “Saalburg 5170” from VEB Stern-Radio Sonneberg, which I had repaired for my friend Axel in early 2015.

The corpus delicti

The radio must have been humming since we bought it, and in fact we found a manufacturing defect that is now being fixed after 50 years. The capacitor was not flanged correctly, so the electrolyte leaked.

Visible defect on the flanged edge

Structure of electrolytic capacitors

But now to the topic. I can’t summarize what you need to know better than Wikipedia.

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium-Elektrolytkondensator

The most important point is that it is an aluminum foil, which has a thin oxide layer on one side. The whole winding is in a liquid, the electrolyte. This ensures that the oxide layer is formed in an electrochemical process. An electric field or voltage is necessary for this. The process of building up the oxide layer is called forming. Another important term is leakage current, which refers to the current that passes through this oxide layer, so to speak. The lower the leakage current, the better. The higher the current, the more power loss we have in the capacitor, which can lead to heat generation and, in extreme cases, even explosion.

Defects

The three most common defects are:

  • Degradation of the oxide layer after a long period without operation
  • Leakage of the electrolyte or drying out
  • Short circuit or breakdown

In the case of point one, the capacitor can be reformed. In the case of points two and three, the component is lost. But you can save the case and replace the inner part with a capacitor of current design. This way it is at least possible to preserve the outer appearance and the function, which is an important point for restorations.

Open electrolytic capacitor and replace inside

I present this process here as a small picture story. In fact, the electrolytic capacitor was as dry as dust inside as suspected. As a safety note, I would like to add that gloves and a respirator should be worn for the work. Normally, the electrolytes from standard electrolytic capacitors are non-toxic, but whether in the 50s and 60s really value was placed on non-toxicity, I dare to doubt.

Wrap in a cloth and carefully clamp in the vice, do not dent it!
File off the edge with a file
Clamp with the thread and pull off the cup upwards
Foot is removed, the wrap is still in the cup
If the wrap is stuck, it can be removed with a large screw
Cup and foot are cleaned with a toothbrush and scouring milk, the replacement capacitors are ready
4 holes are drilled in the base, diameter 1mm for the connections of the new electrolytic capacitors
The positive poles are placed directly next to the old terminal lugs, the negative poles in the outer ring
Installation of the replacement electrolytic capacitors
The positive poles are placed around the old terminal lugs and soldered, the base or the rubber sealing ring is glued to the cup with Pattex
The new negative pole is made from a disc of tinplate, inner diameter 18mm, outer diameter about the electrolytic capacitor thickness
The two negative poles are bent over
The tin plate is soldered to the two negative poles
Ready and operational for another 50 years, even experts can hardly tell the difference

Elko reform

In general, devices with a mains connection that have not been switched on for a very long time should not be put back into operation so easily. Often the power supply electrolytic capacitor then causes a short circuit, which leads to various subsequent errors. The electrolytic capacitor must be reformed, for which there are two basic possibilities. You can do this in the device or you can remove the capacitor.

Reform in the device

If someone uses the procedure described here himself, then expressly at your own risk. I have already done this several times with success, but that does not mean that it always works. The procedure is simple and relies on the fact that old devices are quite robust and a short circuit does not harm the power supply. Every day, the power is turned on a little longer. After that there is a resting period in which the oxide layer in the electrolytic capacitor can build up again.

  • day 1: Switch on for 5s
  • days 2-3: Switch on for 10s each
  • days 4-7: switch on for 20s each
  • from day 8: double the time every day

For very old devices, i.e. older than 50 years and for particularly careful procedures, the phase days 2-3 must be extended to considerably more days, I would suggest up to 2 weeks.

Reforming with high voltage power supply

My preferred method is forming with a high voltage power supply with current limiting. This is a very safe method if you monitor the leakage current and slowly increase the voltage accordingly. The duration of the process goes from a few hours to several weeks. It depends entirely on the age and design of the capacitor. The voltage is slowly increased while taking care not to exceed the maximum leakage current.

My guideline values for the maximum leakage current are:

  • 50µA per µF for 350V capacitors
  • 100µA per µF for 500V types

For capacitors that are from the 40’s or early 50’s, the leakage current can go as high as three times that value. The important thing is that at some point a stable value is established.

Of course, a high voltage power supply and a current meter with 1mA measuring range is not available to everyone. Here I have found a tutorial, how it is also easier:

Formieren_alter_HV-Elkos
Quelle: http://www.el-me-se.de/old/pdf_files/Formieren%20alter%20HV-Elkos.pdf

 

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Paper capacitors restore

Lately I had to replace almost all capacitors on all GDR tube radios and other equipment from the late 50s to early 70s. The problem is always the paper capacitors of the make “Koweg” (Kondensator Werk Görlitz). Over the years, these capacitors have aged and no longer meet the original specification, especially the leakage current. So far, I have always replaced them with long-life film capacitors. According to my observations, the basic problem of these capacitors is the sealing. At the end faces, this consists of something similar to PUR foam (polyurethane foam). However, this crumbles with time and is no longer present on old and thermally stressed specimens. The second part of the sealant is a varnish that has also become brittle over the years on this series. I suspect it is a nitro varnish. These are the remnants from the last restoration project:

Papierkondensatoren

In the past I simply put these capacitors into the electronic scrap, this time everything should be different. The royal road of any restoration is the preservation of the original substance and from this consideration a plan was born.

My very personal theory is that the paper is hygroscopic. Due to the problem of defective sealing, the paper absorbs moisture over time. Since the paper is insulation and dielectric, a different moisture content will greatly change the properties of the capacitor. So you have to dry the capacitor!

I came up with two viable ways to dry it, in a vacuum or with silica gel in a drying box. Silica gel is a drying agent that is commonly used in closed containers, into which you put the granules and the things you want to dry.

I ordered the granules on the Internet and chose a variant with moisture indicator. In this case, orange means dry, blue means moist. The granules can be regenerated in the oven and reused almost indefinitely.

This granulate now simply goes into an airtight plastic box.

Over it comes a paper towel and then the capacitors on top.

The whole thing now comes over the winter on the heater to further increase the steam pressure. I measured a relative humidity between 5% and 10% in the box.

Next year I will then measure the condensers and see if they have better characteristic values again. In addition, I will then describe here how I do the permanent sealing.

 

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